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Custom ZGemma 2.S internal HDD

gaLcH

Newbie
******UPDATED******

I have added pictures and notes on my updated setup. Things moved and improved cooling! See everything at the end of original post.

Good morning!

I had a tinker with my 2S last night as I found it annoying having a HDD trailing out the back of the box. I thought I would open it up and see what the chances are of fitting the HDD internally, I was just in luck there is enough space if you position it right but it is tight, really tight. I have done everything for ease so it may not look pretty, however that was not my intention as it is all hidden.

All of this really isn't necessary as it is easy to plug in an HDD and get on with it, bit I like playing and experimenting. I like pushing things beyond the specifications and this is why I have been inspired to do this. I have posted to show my work and results and this post should not be treated as a guide. If you do try you own mods results will vary box to box, person to person. If you choose to do this it is at your own risk. You will void any warranty you have by opening your box and I will offer no support if you fry your box.

I did not want to have any external cables or connections so I soldered a USB cable direct to the front USB port pins on the motherboard. Quite simple just two data wires, power and ground. You can find pin out all over Google. You can see below where I have left enough wire free to move around the USB port keeping it free when the front is put back on. I chose to use Blutack to protect the soldered wires as hot glue can pull pads off circuit boards if I needed to remove it.




The next thing I did was get the HDD ready. The pictures below hopefully show what was done. I put a bit of plastic on the top of the HDD which will be facing down in the box this is just a precaution as there shouldn't be any risk of a short here. I then put electrical tape across bottom side of the HDD on the exposed circuits as this will be facing towards the box casing and has a higher risk or something touching and shorting the whole thing. The USB connector attached to the HDD is from a caddy which was a few quid of fleabay.





The final part was fitting the HDD and securing it and the USB cable. I could only find one position in the box which is shown below. Due to the design of the USB adaptor I had to have the HDD upside down in the box as if it was put the right way up it would stick too far out, this is the only way I could find where it would lay flat. You can see I have secured the USB cable using the smart card housing with a bit of electrical tape, this is simple but works well.





Now just a final image to show the box detecting the HDD. It initialised fine and has been selected as my primary drive for recordings with my USB pen my being used for EPG and other bits. This massively increases EPG speed when recording TV as the USB is not being used to do multiple things.




Like I said at the start of the thread this thing is not pretty but it is not supposed to be, it is just for convenience and to reduce the amount of things coming out of the box.


****************************UPDATES****************************

I have added a small 30mm fan to the side of the case to remove hot air and help cool the new heat sink which has also been added. The fan is one used in high performance RC items such as cars and helicopters and is rated up to 7v but this would be too high for what it is being used for, as such it is pulling power from a 2v source which makes is ran at a nice quiet speed. The fan does run quiet but the box is no longer 'silent' since it is now actively cooled. It is difficult to hear the fan, you would need to be in a silent room listening very hard and near to the box to hear anything - win!

I have moved the HDD to sit above the smart card reader as this gives a greater distance between the CPU and the HDD which together generate quite a bit of heat, too much for my liking. In order to do this i had the modify the card slot to give access to a new custom right angle USB cable I put together.

This thing is running cold! I have been testing by recording two programs simultaneously and using the system to install and uninstall software to generate heat on the CPU and HDD and I can barely feel any heat. I have noticed an improvement on the responsiveness of the box as well.



 
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Just to add the HDD is retained in place by the lid of the box and components under it. It fits together well but I wouldn't recommend trying any bigger HDD as you may cause damage to your box. I'm looking at hardwiring a wireless adaptor in the box next.
 
Nice to see someone attempting a mod of the hardware... my main worry with this though would be the extra heat in a box that already gets quite warm. Have you thought about adding a small fan?
 
A great project, well done and thanks for sharing.

---------- Post Merged at 11:10 PM ----------

I would be interested to see what you have done at the rear of the front usb port. I presume it was the fleabay lead you soldered onto the board by cutting off the USB end?
 
Crikey these things run hot without a drive in them [emoji15]

Really want it to run at max 30-32 degrees IMO but as always cooler the better

I'd agree with above about a fan or improve the venting (better or bigger gaps) would be top of my list


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Used an old USB cable I had.

Yes heat is a concern and I've minimised it by switching the HDD off when inactive. I have got a fan coming, 30mm x 30mm, so should fit nicely on the side. I will test some points on the board for power and then get the old dremel out!

I did try to replace the heatsink and thermal paste on the CPU but it appears to be glued on and I fear it will pull the CPU off with it. Not sure if anyone has a dead box they would be willing to try this on?
 
And one question I thought of is: can you still use the front usb port with a stick in even though the HDD is using the back of it? Does it act like a dual USB hub?
 
And one question I thought of is: can you still use the front usb port with a stick in even though the HDD is using the back of it? Does it act like a dual USB hub?

I have not tried because i don't intend to use the front USB. I don't think it would work due to power use and nothing to regulate multiple devices.
 
And one question I thought of is: can you still use the front usb port with a stick in even though the HDD is using the back of it? Does it act like a dual USB hub?

I have not tried because i don't intend to use the front USB. I don't think it would work due to power use and nothing to regulate multiple devices.

Yeah that's what I was thinking too, still a great mod though and tempted to play.
 
Go for it. You can always remove everything if it isn't for you. I will update on the fan situation when I have it in and running, it should make a massive difference with active cooling.
 
****************************UPDATES****************************

I have added a small 30mm fan to the side of the case to remove hot air and help cool the new heat sink which has also been added. The fan is one used in high performance RC items such as cars and helicopters and is rated up to 7v but this would be too high for what it is being used for, as such it is pulling power from a 2v source which makes is ran at a nice quiet speed. The fan does run quiet but the box is no longer 'silent' since it is now actively cooled. It is difficult to hear the fan, you would need to be in a silent room listening very hard and near to the box to hear anything - win!

I have moved the HDD to sit above the smart card reader as this gives a greater distance between the CPU and the HDD which together generate quite a bit of heat, too much for my liking. In order to do this i had the modify the card slot to give access to a new custom right angle USB cable I put together.

This thing is running cold! I have been testing by recording two programs simultaneously and using the system to install and uninstall software to generate heat on the CPU and HDD and I can barely feel any heat. I have noticed an improvement on the responsiveness of the box as well.



 
I could see this working on something like a 32Gb usb pen drive, how ever it isnt recommended to draw power from the box to run a hard drive with moving parts, interesting mod but not for me
 
I could see this working on something like a 32Gb usb pen drive, how ever it isnt recommended to draw power from the box to run a hard drive with moving parts, interesting mod but not for me

Each to their own, but what make you say it's not recommended for a mechanical HDD? The drive is drawing less than 5v due to minimal load, and the power to the actual point on the board where the USB is connected is near to 6v. The drive shuts off after 10 seconds of inactivity, there will be no issues here. I think you are confusing 3.5" and 2.5" drives. 2.5" run happily on 5v or less good for use in laptops or in USB ports etc. 3.5" will normally need 5v+12v will need power direct from a PSU.

Doing it with a pen drive would be pointless and even more pointless with 32 GB. A pen drive fits in the back nicely already so no need for mod.
 
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how ever it isnt recommended to draw power from the box to run a hard drive with moving parts

I understood the point you were making - mechanical drives (mains powered) are 100% fine - concern was when these boxes first came out as to whether a USB powered HDD would draw too much current through the mainboard/psu. The chinese are notorious for over stating ratings on power supply labels (I used to work in computer component distribution in the early days and the manufacturers would ask what you wanted printing on the label!!!). Although the board says it can handle up to a max of 0.5A some HDD's can draw a fair bit of power when they kick in - older ones sometimes more than this. The recommendation to avoid was for this reason but loads of people seem to ignore the advice and use a USB powered HDD....I've not heard of any problems with boxes failing yet!

---------- Post Merged at 07:57 PM ----------

This thing is running cold!
Nice mate- like the fan, any chance of an explanation or close up of where you took the power from? How did you get the heatsink off and is that an old pc one you fitted? Now wondering if there's anyway to overclock???
 
It is an interesting project and you can't mock someone for having ago with a reasonable cheap sat box. As drago once said. If he dies he dies.

Hope you got one of these though. ;)

Smoke-Detector.jpg
 
This thing is running cold!
Nice mate- like the fan, any chance of an explanation or close up of where you took the power from? How did you get the heatsink off and is that an old pc one you fitted? Now wondering if there's anyway to overclock???

I was thinking of an overclock, but that is beyond me with these things.

I have taken some pictures which you can see below, hopefully it shows clearly where the fan is connected, black is to ground and red to power.
The heat sink is from a really old graphics card I had in a box of crap. I had to think outside the box for this one as the stock heat sink is attached with glue I believe and wont come free. I cut a small piece of copper the same size as the stock heat sink and then added thermal paste across one side and stuck it to the top of the heat sink. I then put thermal paste on top of the copper and placed the new heatsink on top securing it with small Velcro strips against the tuner component and a strip of electrical tape just to help. This actually allows a better heat spread and pulls it further away from the CPU, combined with the fan it has resulted in a very cool box.



 
Hey gaLcH, I'm loving your mods to the zgemma 2s!

Mine developed a "rattle" after a house move which just had to be investigated - a capacitor sleeve had come off and was rolling around inside - popped it back on with a tiny squeeze. Job done.
Had a look around inside and realised there was enough space for an up to 9mm thick 2.5" internal hdd above the card reader and wondered if anyone had done it. A quick search led me to your post. Hope you don't mind if I ask you a few questions.

1. Did you investigate the two 4-pin motherboard connectors to the front of the original heatsink? Mine are labelled CONBO1 (white socket on right) CONBO2 (black plug on left). I wondered what they're for and if they are usable in some way.
2. I have a spare hdd from an upgraded laptop which is rated at 5V & 0.7A which is above the stated "0.5A max" label printed under the rear USB port. Do you know what your hdd power rating is or what current it is drawing?
3. I noticed that there are no slotted cooling holes cut in approx half the "stamped" cooling slot markings on the top cover. The only slots actually cut through are on the right side end and the 5 columns of stamped markings on the right side on top. You obviously opened up the inside case to fit the fan on the left but did you also open up the slots on the left end of the top cover to allow air in?
4. Do you consider your added (ex-graphics card) heatsink essential? Have you ran the unit with just the fan and standard heatsink arrangement?
5. How has your zgemma been since the hdd heatsink & fan mods in January, is it still running cool and has it been reliable?
6. Did the improved response you noticed been maintained?
Sorry about the mass of questions. Just looking for a bit of reassurance before trying this out myself. 👍
 
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