give the rubber water hoses a squeeze are they crackly pointing to a problem it had overheated sometime and rusty sediment has entered the heater matrix,is the water in the expansion bottle clean or dirty,or worse oily sludge.:attention:
sorry,i posted to this the other day but i guess it didnt take. couple of questions.what does the temp gauge read? if it reads low and you have no heat look at the thermostat.if the temp reads normal feel the two heater hoses going into your heater core.they should both be hot.if not the core is plugged.if the hoses are hot and still no heat then your controls ie blend door could be at fault.post back with all the info on year make model and what kind of heater system it has.is it air conditioned? if so what kind. sorry,more questions than answers right now,but with this info i can probably search it in my online repair program.cheers al.
hey dee.check both heater hoses going to the heater.they both should be hot.if not it is a control problem.post back exact model and what kind of system it is.ie auto or manual.maybe i can find a troubleshooting tree to figure it out. al.
hey dee,sounds like a control problem.im in canada so dont have this on my database.its likely whats called a blend door motor problem.this is what controls the heat into your cab.its probably a vacuum or electrical motor that opens this door.when i said manual or auto i meant your heater a/c system.lol.if anyone over there has a diagram?
out of the blue G it started after i had a new power steering pump fitted, the engine was lifted out to do the job as it was the only way to get to the bloody thing.
get plenty of cold air threw though. lol
I would agree with you Gman it looks now that some damage may have occurred during the lifting process,the below could have got damaged just a suggestion dee.
Heater Resistor Pack. Consisting of 3 open coil wire resistors that sit in the heater ducting and are cooled by the forced air movement through the air duct. These resistor coils become brittle and break.